visa card mastercard paypal american express card

Renovating a Run-down Staircase – Top Tips from the Trade

When taking on a domestic renovation project, one of the biggest decisions that you will have to make is whether you should restore existing features or rip them out and replace them with new, especially larger structures such as staircases.

Top Tips from The Trade

Mark Finney Mark Finney is a Derbyshire-based furniture maker who has become internationally recognised as a result of his woodworking expertise and his writing contributions to major national titles. He is also the author of Stanley Book of Woodwork. Mark specialises in creating and finding new finishes, and his ‘How to’ advice has built him a large following from both trade and DIY customers.


Scott Else — With over 20 years’ experience in the carpentry trade, Scott Else WoodWorks was established in 2000. Renowned for his high quality bespoke cabinet making and purpose-made joinery, on both commercial and domestic projects, Scott is a leading name in the woodworking trade across Sheffield and the UK.


We asked Mark and Scott the following questions:

What factors determine whether it is worth the time and effort to restore a run-down staircase rather than replace it?

Scott: I would be looking for original mouldings, the shape of spindles and newel posts etc. and any sign of damage either through wear or rotting. If all is good then it would be worth restoring.

How long would it take to strip a balustrade painted with numerous thick coats of gloss back to the original wood?

Mark: It takes time and patience to strip away old paint and varnish, especially from fiddly spindles and newels. More powerful paint removers are available but these are restricted to professional users only and so generally DIYer's have to make do with more standard formulas. Some paints can be removed easily, but others may be very stubborn requiring multiple treatments. Professional fitters and finishers will use the stronger mixes of course, but even so, getting into very tight corners and recesses can take time – and time costs money.

Scott: It would take a very long time and I wouldn't recommend any DIYer to take it on. In terms of using an experienced tradesperson, the time scale will be determined by how big the staircase is and what type of balustrade it has, i.e. spindles or panels. 

What are the benefits of removing the spindles and getting them dipped to remove the paint, as opposed to manually stripping them?

Mark: Chemical stripping is a much faster process than hand stripping but there are drawbacks too.  Dip and Strip processes can dimensionally affect timber and can also cause splitting. Valuable spindles, especially oak, should never be stripped using the dipping method. There is also the colour difference to consider. Unless other component parts are stripped in a similar fashion, there will be a noticeable difference between the spindles and, say, a hand rail or newel. This will be apparent if a clear or translucent finish is to be applied later.

Scott: Dipping the spindles would be the quicker option although you would need to take care not to damage them in their removal.

What tools/products would you recommend to create a professional DIY restoration job?

Mark: You will require paint removers and/or abrasives to prepare the job initially. If you intend to colour the work, wood stains will be required to be purchased too and these must be compatible with the top coat finish. Hard wax oils produce a clear finish and are easy to use on most woods to produce a natural sheen. Where a silky, waxed feel is required, apply two to three coats of microporous hard wax oil, cutting back between coats with 400 grit paper. This can then be finished with wax polish applied using a pad of 0000 wire wool and buffed to give a very smooth surface. It sounds complicated, but in fact, this is a really simple process.

Scott: I would recommend investing in a chop saw as you will need to make a lot of cuts and many of those will be angled ones. You will also need basic tools like a hammer, different chisels, glue, sand paper, an electric drill, a level and not forgetting a sliding bevel to transfer the angles to your chop saw.

What problems are you likely to face when undertaking a DIY restoration job?

Mark: The temptation to rush is the biggest enemy, as failure to carry out correct preparation will result in an unsatisfactory end result. Some woods do not take stains well, and failure to understand this may also result in some DIYer's attempting to achieve the impossible. Correct choice of finish is essential. Over (or under) application of a product is also a common error. Generally, thin coats are recommended. All liquid products should be well stirred. Finishes must also be de-nibbed (cut back) with very fine abrasive paper between coats.

Scott: Some parts of a staircase are integral to the construction i.e. the bottom of the newels where the tread and riser meet it. I would strongly suggest not cutting into these if you are a DIYer. Other problems would be taking precise copies of the angles, making sure all is plumb and level and sticking to up-to-date regulations, which you can find on the Internet.

Once you have removed the paint from your balustrades, what would you recommend to treat the wood to enhance its original finish?

Mark: Wooden bannisters can be finished in all manner of ways. Penetrating wax polishes and traditional oils are easy to use and look natural but they don’t offer much protection. Varnishes are a tougher option but, depending on the type, can look artificial, especially when incorrectly applied or not of good enough quality. A compromise is to use semi-penetrating hard wax oils, although they, too, vary much in quality, sheen and appearance. Painting is also a common solution, but remember that this type of surface coating may chip or flake. If this is likely to be a problem, and you would still like a painted look, try applying an emulsion or chalk paint and then finish off with a lower colour change clear finish such as acrylic varnish in either a matt or satin. This can also be waxed using clear finishing wax for a smoother, more natural looking appearance.

Scott: If you are looking to see the wood in all its natural beauty then oils would be your best bet, but you really need to make sure that all of the original paint is removed out of those hard to reach areas. If the staircase and balustrading are made of different types of wood and maybe have damaged areas that have been filled over the years, then painting is probably the best option.

Can you share any tips on replacing or restoring skirting boards on a staircase?

Scott: If at all possible try to restore the original skirting. If this isn’t possible and you really do need to replace it, save the removed original skirting so you can replicate any angles that you come across, if you are lucky you can copy the pieces exactly.

Any top tips for removing panelling?

Scott: If you're going to keep and re-use the panelling then you will need to use a chisel and hammer and carefully prise the separate components away from one another. If you are not going to re-use it then you can saw it out and use the hammer and chisel for the more awkward bits.

When encountering problems when undertaking a DIY project, at what point do you call in the professionals to ensure the safety of a job?

Mark: If you ever feel out of your depth, or have damaged the wood by incorrect sanding, or by the incorrect application of materials, especially wood stains… STOP. Any remedial work required will become much more expensive to do the more there is to put right and, in some cases, cannot ever be satisfactorily rectified.

Scott: If the structural strength is compromised then definitely call in a professional. For example, if you have broken/rotten treads, risers or strings.

For more advice about renovating your staircase, including replacing old spindles with new ones, or replicating original spindles and stair parts with our woodturning service, get in touch with us here at Jackson’s Woodturners.